I stepped off the plane into Nuuk expecting “cold,” the way you expect cold when you’ve looked at a weather app and seen a number with a minus sign attached, but Greenland doesn’t really do cold as a temperature so much as it does cold as a condition—something that presses against your cheeks, creeps into your gloves, and makes the simplest choices feel like strategy, like whether you can afford to stop walking long enough to film a shot without your hands turning into useless bricks.
The first thing that hits you is how close everything feels to the edge of the world: the ocean is right there, the mountains loom like the backdrop of a survival documentary, and the snow doesn’t just “fall,” it moves sideways, drifting and pooling into ridges that force you off sidewalks and into the kind of half-plowed, half-forgotten paths where you start making peace with the idea that you might have to cut between somebody’s house just to find your way back to wherever “home” is tonight.
I walked down to the water because I wanted to see what Nuuk looks like the way Nuuk sees itself—facing outward, facing the sea—and out there, unbelievably, there was a guy in a boat, just working the icy water like it was any other day, which is the kind of detail that makes you realize how quickly humans can normalize the extraordinary when the extraordinary is what they grew up with.
And then there were the icebergs.
Not the dramatic, movie-poster ones you think of when someone says “iceberg,” but these smaller pieces that look like they broke off something much bigger and drifted in close, like the Arctic casually scattering fragments of itself along the shore for you to study up close; some of them were the size of a truck, which still qualifies as “tiny” here, and some were smaller still, but the color is what keeps pulling your eyes back—this improbable, almost luminous blue that looks like it belongs in a gemstone, not in a chunk of frozen seawater sitting on a beach.
It was around sixteen degrees when I filmed that first clip—sixteen Fahrenheit—and people kept telling me, almost cheerfully, that I was lucky, because this was “pretty warm,” and that’s the kind of local optimism you either admire or resent depending on how far into your gloves the cold has crawled.
But I didn’t come to Greenland just to confirm that it is, in fact, Greenland.
I came because I wanted to see what it feels like in a place when the President of the United States starts talking about that place the way a developer talks about an empty lot, or the way a bully talks about a smaller kid’s lunch money, and I wanted to hear it from the people who live here—people who have never had to wonder whether America is a friend, because the assumption has always been yes, of course, that’s what allies are.







