For 143 years, the town hall in Limoges stood at the heart of the city, until rioters set it ablaze and cheered as the roof collapsed. I spent a week on the ground in central France talking with protesters, the firefighters who fought the blaze, an American missionary pastor, and residents mourning what they lost. What began as student protests has grown to include labor unions, farmers, retirees and far-left groups, angry about the cost of living and planned budget cuts. We got caught in the tear gas and flash-bangs, saw soldiers guarding a 600-year-old cathedral, and found gun stores selling out of less-lethal weapons. We also visited the ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane, the village where the SS massacred 643 people in 1944, a reminder of how fragile civilization can be. Rebuilding the town hall will take years. Rebuilding trust between the French people and their government could take much longer.









